Dish

deconstructing

explanations from the inside out

wassail

"Here we come a-wassailing" is the refrain of an old Christmas song, though many singers change the words to "here we come a-caroling." That, my holiday revelers, would be an entirely different thing. If you are "a-wassailing," then you're drinking a hot, alcoholic punch, long on both history and spices. Caroling is singing, which can, but doesn't necessarily, result from too much wassailing.

The origin and ingredients of wassail are debatable. However, Sharon Tyler Herbst writes in The New Food Lover's Companion that the word "wassail" comes from the Norse phrase ves heill, which means "to be in good health." It was common in northern Europe to raise a glass of wassail as a toast.

Wassail traditionally includes ale or wine sweetened with sugar and then laced with spices and roasted apple. Perhaps, an early version of mulled apple cider? Normally, wassail is served from a punch bowl, which imparts a communal feeling of sharing and good tidings.

Wassail is still a strong tradition in England, where some foodies claim it originated. Indeed, Charles Dickens wrote of the hot drink in several books, including A Christmas Carol.

To make wassail, simmer 1 gallon apple cider, 8 sticks cinnamon, 1 lemon, washed and sliced, 1 orange, washed and sliced, 1 tablespoon whole cloves and 1 tablespoon allspice in a large pot for 1 to 2 hours. Then add 1 gallon white wine and 2 cups rum and simmer for about 10 minutes before serving hot. Leave out the wine and rum for a nonalcoholic version.

cooking class

To have beautiful pistachios for fillings or toppings, remove the brown coating from the shelled nuts. If you peel them individually, it's a tedious task. A more efficient way is to either boil or toast them in the oven for a few minutes first. Then spread the nuts on half of a large kitchen towel and fold it over to cover the nuts. With open palms, rub the towel so the nuts move between the fabric, and their papery skins slip off.

constant comment

"I have often noticed that when chickens quit quarreling over their food they often find that there is enough for all of them. I wonder if it might not be the same with the human race." -- American journalist Don Marquis (1878-1937)

this web site cooks

www.uga.edu/fruit/index.html

Ever wonder who has the time to eat a pomegranate, the leathery-looking orb with sweet red seeds inside? Their juice was once used to make grenadine syrup, but no longer. Manufacturers now make it with corn syrup sweetener and red dye 40, probably because it's a nightmare trying to use the real thing. The juice stains, and pomegranates are messy.

You'll find much more about pomegranate and other fruit on Mark Rieger's Web site. Rieger is a professor of horticulture at the University of Georgia.

Ever heard of a loquat?

No spud duds

Chances are your holiday menu includes potatoes in one form or another. The Idaho Potato Commission offers this advice for selecting and preparing spuds:

-- Look for clean, smooth, firm-textured skin that has no cuts, bruises or discoloration.

-- Store potatoes in a cool, dry place, but never in the refrigerator.

-- Don't wash spuds until just before you use them.

-- Never wrap potatoes in foil while baking -- this steams the potato.

straight story

Here's a tip on cutting bar cookies from Mom's Best Desserts by Andrea Chesman and Fran Raboff (Storey, 2002): To guarantee neat, straight edges on brownies or bar cookies, first line the pan with aluminum foil, cutting the foil so it is long enough to extend beyond the edges of the pan. If the recipe calls for a buttered pan, butter the foil. Once the bars have been baked and cooled in the pan, gently use the overhanging foil to lift the entire batch of bars from the pan. Then you can use a knife to cut the bars. (The foil also makes cleanup easier and prevents knife marks in the pan.)

targeting america

Tupperware is partying with Target. The maker of food storage containers now sells about 50 of its products in 1,148 Target stores nationwide. Last year, Tupperware placed its items in a few SuperTarget stores. In this expanded arrangement, members of Tupperware's sales teams are in the stores to assist customers and demonstrate products. They also answer questions about Tupperware parties. Among the featured Tupperware products in the Target housewares department are tumblers, measuring cups, mixing bowls, canisters and some toys.

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