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Preparing for an election

IRBIL, Iraq - Took a break from writing today to go get my hair washed. I could have done it myself, but it's always nice to use salons. Like barber shops, they're often gossipy places that give a glimpse into local life.

By SUSAN TAYLOR MARTIN
Published January 28, 2005

Since today is Friday, the Muslim holy day, most businesses in Irbil were closed. So our driver took me to a little shop in Ankawa, a village near here with with a large Christian population. (It's also home to a small unit of American soldiers.)

There was no running water, so a young woman heated water in a kettle, then poured it into a plastic tub. I sat in one of those molded plastic chairs while Iven, the stylist, carefully poured out just enough water to suds, rinse, suds and rinse.

The walls of her tiny shop were covered with glossy photos of beautifully coiffed brides in their wedding dresses. Kurds, the predominant population here in northern Iraq, go in for big weddings, and the bride and her bridesmaids often spend hours in shops like this getting their hair done and their faces professionally made up.

Iven herself is still unmarried at 30. But she loved pointing out photos of her favorite brides.

"Are you going to vote Sunday?" I asked, referring to Iraq 's first democratic elections.

"No," she said. "That's my only day off and I want to be free."

The price for an excellent shampoo and blow-dry was just 5,000 Iraqi dinars - about $3. I gave Iven a 2,500 dinar tip but she insisted that was too much and handed back 1,000 dinars. I told her I'd return.

On the way back to Irbil, we were passed by two vans full of laughing young women waving colorful scarves out the windows. They were on their way to a wedding - Friday is a big day for them. The drivers honked madly, and other motorists grinned and waved.

For the past few days, we've also been hearing loudspeakers blaring out slogans for various candidates and political parties. After a slow start, the election campaign is finally in full swing, but tonight is the last we'll see - or hear - of cars with loudspeakers on top. A nationwide travel ban goes into effect tonight - ironically, Iraq will in effect be under marshal law for its first free and fair election.

[Last modified January 28, 2005, 16:29:02]